Bowl Turning – Getting Started


In the winter of 2010 I chose to seek after a private investigation of bowl turning. I read each book I could discover and viewed YouTube recordings again and again before I bought my Nova DVR XP machine, a 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch Crown bowl gouge, a splitting apparatus, a huge scrubber, a Makita right point drill, belt sander, orbital sander, pounding wheel, Sthil cutting tool, polishing wheel, sanding circles, sand paper, CA stick, pecan oil, finish, beeswax, clothes, wood to manufacture a hard core mounting surface for the machine and blockades to balance out the table. I never took woodshop nor did I have any past experience turning bowls. I had constructed a 2 story log lodge in Canada and consistently supported an affection for wood and trees.

I requested a large portion of my diverting gear from the wood turners inventory and have been astonished since the time on how the apparatuses and hardware satisfied my hopes and showed up extremely quick.

While I fabricated my machine table (per Nova DVR details downloaded from the web), I set out to discover hotspots for logs. I set free promotions on craigslist requesting enormous logs which brought about my gaining some huge Dutch Elm logs and some medium size Cypress logs. I likewise called different kindling providers, the vast majority of whom didn’t have entire logs accessible or wood that was ideal for wood turning. Notwithstanding, one tree shaper reached me and he communicated a genuine romance of wood and enthusiasm for helping me to discover great wood. I drove out to his stockpiling yard where I discovered huge measurement logs of cedar, oak, walnut and gigantic sections of dark pecan that his dad had spared and secured.

On another event I halted by a kindling yard in the lower regions and watched out upon an unending gracefully of immense rounds of debris, oak, and species obscure. I before long had a decent reserve of logs which I stacked in the shade of an avocado tree in my lawn and approximately secured with a plastic canvas. I kept the logs off the ground with bits of kindling and wood I had lying around. Overall, barring the dark pecan which was costly, I could fill my Ford Explorer with enormous lumps of wood for $40 to $60. In examination, after visiting stores that gracefully bowl spaces, I found that most resale spaces were both little and costly. One clear could cost as much as a truckload of un-split kindling.

Not having a carport to house my gear, I constructed a little shed utilizing pressed wood and a canvas to ensure my work zone. I utilize a little BBQ spread to secure my machine inside the shed. My instruments are promptly accessible from a rack beneath the machine seat.

I intentionally abstained from buying expensive gear like a band saw or pointless instruments like granulating guides, and so on My goal was to make common looking rural dishes utilizing minimal measure of hardware as could be expected under the circumstances.

There are countless feelings on what gear and devices are required, how to control your apparatuses, how to hone your devices, what is the correct wood to utilize, and what comprises a satisfactory bowl…I chose to simply drive through it, do whatever me might want to do, and learn as I go. The cutting apparatus, machine, bowl gouge, sander and processor are at the core of all that I do.

I started taking a gander at other craftsman’s dishes in craftsman shops and on the web. I saw the most perfectly completed empty structures sitting behind glass on shelves…only $800.00! I likewise discovered sites with truly decent dishes available to be purchased for such a low value that I can’t envision how the craftsman could pay for their turning supplies. These perceptions left me puzzled and, once more, I simply chose to do whatever me might want to do and see what occurs.

My absence of involvement and utilitarian enthusiasm for bowl turning made me believe that my work would be jeered at via prepared experts. Thus it was shockingly that few of my dishes, sold secretly or through quiet sell-offs, were pieces that had noticeable fixed breaks, surface anomalies or twisted sides. That is the point at which I understood that I don’t have to satisfy different craftsmen; there are individuals who discover defects generally fascinating and I should concede that when natural product or a plate of mixed greens blend is put in a bowl with different blemishes, the general look is engaging. I’ve had companions remind me not to move excessively far away from the rural allure of my first pieces and I have acknowledged their recommendation.

The Lathe

I love my Nova DVR XP. I took a gander at numerous different models including ones that I was unable to bear the cost of and reasonable ones that necessary moving the belt across pulleys to change the turning speed. Since I’m really turning bowls I can’t envision utilizing anything other than a steady factor speed direct drive machine that permits you to change speeds with the dash of a finger on a computerized cushion. This doesn’t imply that the DVR XP is totally perfect…large out-of-round spaces can cause my weighty work seat to hop around at higher paces, the wellbeing system that stops the machine during a huge “get” can kick in too effectively with enormous spaces turning at lower speeds, and there have been minor issues like a nut coming free inside the lodging. I’ve figured out how to address or function around these issues with extraordinary fulfillment. I have NOT given the include a shot help for turning dumbfounds 16 creeps in breadth however would envision there will be some burdening of the machine and my work station. The DVR was under $2200.00 and was my solitary enormous ticket buy. It was conveyed by cargo to my carport and the conveyance man helped me lift it onto my work station.

For what reason is it so essential to have the option to change speed rapidly? You’ll know the response to that question when you make your first bowl. Beginning gouging, get done with gouging, scratching, sanding, applying a completion, buffing…you’ll utilize a wide scope of rates to play out every one of these errands.

Disrupting the Guidelines

There’s nothing amiss with being a severe taskmaster. There’s nothing amiss with legitimate preparing and instruction. It’s in my tendency to go only it and a major aspect of the fun is learning as you go and trying different things with your own thoughts. For instance; Everything I’ve perused and viewed on record about turning bowls demonstrated mounting the bowl to shape the outside of the bowl, at that point remounting the bowl to shape within the bowl. This includes utilizing a faceplate and afterward utilizing a toss for the rest of turning. I was astounded to discover that I could cut both the outside and inside while never eliminating the faceplate and still NOT have screw openings in the lower part of my bowl. For what reason didn’t anybody notice this?

Utilizing kindling as opposed to costly exotics, I am at freedom to expand the profundity of my bowl clear by the length of screws used to make sure about the faceplate. I shape the outside of the bowl, including 75% of the base, leaving just that part of wood at the faceplate un-tooled, abstaining from slicing excessively near the plate. I at that point, without getting off the clear, shape the edge and within the bowl and follow molding with sanding and cleaning. I at that point utilize a splitting device lastly a hand saw to isolate the additional wood at the faceplate from the lower part of the bowl. A belt sander will level out the base.

Another standard breaker includes turning green or wet wood. I’ve discovered that the outcomes rely upon the wood, the measure of dampness and your ability to manage twisting issues. Accessible information shows that you can turn a harsh form of the bowl with even divider thickness and put the bowl in a safe spot for a couple of months in a cool territory. I’ve perused that you can place the bowl in paper packs until dampness is not, at this point obvious on the sack. I am, now, too anxious to even think about waiting a couple of months and the main time I attempted the paper sack stunt, the bowl was canvassed in form when I brought it out.

At the point when I turn a sodden or wet wood, one of three things happens. 1) The bowl twists. One of my most cherished pieces was a profound twisted Dutch Elm bowl. 2) Cracks create. That is the thing that CA stick is for. It works phenomenal and the more you figure out how to utilize it the better the outcomes. You can hand rub fine sawdust into the CA stick drenched break, apply extra flimsy CA stick then a cleaning of all the more fine sawdust with a light rub to even things out. You will have the option to sand the filler in under 60 minutes. I CA stick as well as fill all obvious splits promptly during and in the wake of turning and varying during the drying cycle. Alright, in the event that you need to turn accuracy pieces liberated from any imperfections, at that point this won’t work. 3) The completing cycle must be deferred. Veneer completions will dull from the dampness. Solidifying oils will secure in the dampness. Put the bowl aside until completing can happen. Contingent upon the measure of dampness and kind of wood this may just take a couple of days or half a month. In any case, I have been applying a layer of pecan oil on the entirety of my green dishes following turning and sanding. I have been sanding the green dishes with 80 through 400 coarseness, cleaning on a layer of pecan oil, re-sanding with 220 through 400 coarseness to bring down any raised grain and afterward saving the bowl. The more drawn out the bowl is put aside the more possibility that the bowl will twist and, along these lines, you won’t have the option to remount the bowl on the machine for extra gouging or machine sanding. 4) Nothing terrible occurs. I’m stunned yet it’s the truth…it’s happened commonly. I turn a moist bowl, finish sand it, buff it out, wipe it down with pecan oil, leave it in a cool territory of the house, turning it on head of paper packs and the bowl comes out fine. I’ve even applied layers of shower veneer presently. Alright, the polish may dimple or dull if water is apparent and further completing or polishing will be required. I had two dishes create dull dabbed lines under the veneer finish and I’m struggling eliminating them. I’m presently inclining towards letting the dishes dry in the wake of sanding, with a solitary layer of pecan oil scoured into the wood.

The primary concern: other than certain issues with splits, which I fixed varying with CA stick (fine, medium or thick), and some distorting which I kept or re-tooled to eliminate, I’ve turned numerous truly cool looking green dishes without.